Final Visual Product : Top Hat

Final Development of the Visual Product 

So finally the final product is ready, a women's top-hat inspired from steampunk and Victorian art era. My aim for this concept was to have an eccentric and fun hat.This is ideal to wear it  with a costume/clothes related with Victorian and steampunk, themed parties, fashion events or if you want to stand-out from the crowd. 

Final Product Drawing

So I chose to do a top-hat style and not any other hat because this style is worn with Victorian and steampunk outfits. Before in the Victorian era men used to wear top-hats for everyday, but women opted for similar styles too. Meanwhile in steampunk  fashion its a must and can be worn by anybody, they also add goggles on top. 

This type of  hat was created during the time of change and revolution in fashion, art, architecture,design, technology, commerce and  mass production.

The reason I did it purple to complement the magenta flower and also a rich colour too. Effie Trinket wore clothing made from rich quality materials. Purple colour  represent royalty, magic and mystery. The flower changed it a bit and didn't do it exactly like hers, instead I added a steampunk clock with frame in a form of a gear. The minute and hour clock hands which have a typical design for steampunk only and placed them coming out from behind the flower.To add a bit a typical Victorian element added the lace fabric as a strip around the hat. 

Sketches and Development

Sketches and Developments for Final Product

So finally after doing my research on Victorian hats, steampunk design and Effie Trinket's style in Hunger Games film I concluded to a style and design for my product which is the top hat. Part of the research that I did about Victorian fashion along times and characteristics, but focused more on hats and headpieces worn. Since steampunk is very inspired from Victorian especially the last two decades I made sure to design a hat which was invented and worn at that time. 

Amongst from  'flower pot', tyrolean and  bonnets top hats were very popular especially  for men but women who participated in outdoor activities opted for a smiler style like the men. Top hats are very associated with steampunk so I opted for a top hat style. Found some images regarding this style and sketched a few in colour. 

Sketch of two Top Hat slightly different

Sketches of Tyrolean and Top Hat style

Apart choosing the style of the hat, the decorating of the hat is based on steampunk characteristics, Effie Trinket's flower headpiece and a piece of lace and the idea of side flowers on hats too from the Victorian lady painting. I sketched some of these although they are not well done and clear.

Sketches of gears, clock hands and lace

I was still not sure what colour to use for the base though  wanted it to be fun and use bright colours, keeping in mind the magenta flower from Trinket's inspiration to match with colour chosen. Then decided to keep on cold colours for two reasons; my favourite colours and seen a lot in Effie Trinket's outfits also Victorians loved bright hues for there outfits and hats. A deep purple colour I chose together with a magenta flower.

Drew the top hat and tried out what purple hues use by using acqaurelles and smudge all over. Also placed the flower and steampunk clock hands on the side of the hat together with a real piece of lace.

Top Hat with flower and clock hands placed and lace attached

Now I will finalize and adapt accordingly to a finished product.

Gina Scarnati- Effie Trinket's Headpieces Designer

Gina Scarnati 

Gina Scarnati 

Gina Scarnati  originally is a professional costume designer but worked as a milliner in The Hunger Games film. Scarnati produced all the hats and headpieces shown in the film a total of 192 headpieces done in under six weeks, 20 days in  a row and 16 hours non-stop. The aim was the hats to evoke each district in the film. Obviously she created all of the headpieces Effie Trinket worn in the film, including the iconic magenta flower headpiece seen in the first part of the film. 

Effie Trinket in Entertainment's Weekly 

The opening scene wearing the magenta flower 

The training and education Scarnati in making hats was given by Andrea Barrier but also she attended Dean's University and created her own major theatre production and costume designs. While still an undergraduate she followed courses from the Professional Theatre Training Program as theatre is one of her passions that she truly loves. Gina Scarnati worked in many productions such as "Snow White and the Huntsman", True Blood also with professional theatre companies in Delaware. 

Although Gina Scarnati focused on flower headpieces rather than hats, in Effie Trinket attire we still see that Victorian element in the creations .Flowers were very much used in Victorian hats and headpieces.The colours worn on Trinket bright and vivid are the same colours they wore back in the Victorian era. Apart from the colours, Effie Trinket style is very much inspired from the Victorian, the puffed sleeves on a tailored jacket, the pencil skirt with frills that make up a suit complementing a prim and proper look just like Victorian women. Scarnati and Trish Summerville wanted to create uncomfortable outfits and shoes, to adapt with Trinket's discomfort in living the Capitol's lifestyle in which by time she realise that it was damaging for the habitants. Victorian outfits were uncomfortable due to puffed, big skirts,tight corsets,heavy hats sometimes and more. Victorian Women sometimes couldn't walk or sit properly.Accessories like long gloves, brooches, chunky flower collars even the big curly hair all of them originated in the nineteenth century. 

Artika Rangan Casini ,2013. Hunger Games Hats. [online] Available at:< http://www.udel.edu/udaily/2012/mar/scarnati-hunger-games-032912.html > 

[Accessed 17 January 2014]

Characteristics of Steampunk

Steampunk Garments and Accessories

When we hear the word steampunk  immediately come to our minds technology and mechanical engines  based in the Victorian Era. Some people think of something as post-apocalyptic, Sc-Fi or vintage. Basically it revolves around the Industrial Revolution of the machine age. It is a society of "What If?" with a futuristic aspect combined with the steam period.  We recognise steampunk from the symbols and the particular styles used in clothes and accessories that are quite original and eccentric. 

                             

Some popular examples of steampunk clothing and accessories are the corset, military jackets, frilled and puffed skirts, ruffled shirts, lace-up boots jackets with tails and waistcoats. Regarding accessories the top hat and the goggles are a must amongst others such as  large buckled belts, gloves, pouches and more. Most colours used for this particular style are browns, grey, black, khaki, maroon and navy blue although one can wear any colour to achieve a steampunk look.

Steampunk top hat with gears

Men's look

Steampunk goggles

Steampunk requires materials such as metal and wood that make the objects look permanently rather than technology made from plastic. Common materials used in steampunk designs are brass, copper, steel,iron together with wood,antique glassbulbs, leather and glass. Antiquities inspired from the Victorian era such eye glasses and pocket watches are very popular, they also give an indication of which social class a person belongs too. Sometimes in a Sci-fi film  we see body parts such as skin, arms, bones etc  made from mechanical components. Clocks are a necessity in steampunk as they are much older than steam technology along with clocks we find gears that are important too. Without the gears the steam and clock machine can't work. Another popular symbol in steampunk is the key which is  associated with automaton robots to function. The list of materials and symbols of steampunk goes on and on. The three that I mentioned here are the most commonly used in garments and accessories. 

Man with mechanical arm 

The clock symbol represent time and the developments time brought by throughout the years that started in the Victorian era. Gears are linked with steam and clocks since they won't function without a gear. In fashion, the gear  is the most used symbol in steampunk .Last but not least the key without it an automaton would't work. In my opinion the key represents the opening lock of a new world, a new society and new inventions that came along with time. An example is the automaton which would only function with a key certain them, these can sing, write with a functional  language and voice they represent also "Fantasy vs Realism". 

Steampunk gears

Steampunk keys 

               

                 Steampunk clock with gears and Roman numbers  

These three components are used mostly in every steampunk accessory from top hats, brooches, jewellery, shoes, glasses and many more. Steampunk goggles and hats are also commonly used in an outfit. In my visual product I will be using them for the hat, maybe I won't use the three of them but set them  next to each other to create like a brooch on the hat. Regarding the shape of the hat I will be doing one inspired from the late Victorian a top hat or flower pot hat styles.

Leata Nelsonl ,2012. What is Steampunk? Here Are Some General Characteristics. [online] Available at :< http://www.streetarticles.com/fashion-style/what-is-steampunk-here-are-some-general-characteristics >

[Accessed 17 January 2014]

Jonathan Strickland,n.d. How Steampunk Works.[online] Available at :< http://people.howstuffworks.com/steampunk1.htm >

[Accessed 17 January 2014]

The Headpiece Style and Design inspired from Victorian Era

Head-Piece Style and Design Inspiration

My final concept idea of the visual product is that of headpiece inspired from the Victorian era, Steampunk and the character of Effie Trinket from the The Hunger Games film. What made me to design this concept its  because I am big fan of headpieces and hats and wanted to so something related with fashion but different. I wanted to relate the theme of time with the concept and I think they are going to fit perfectly. As I mentioned in previous blog posts about the product,is that both era's ( Victorian and Steampunk) are linked with each other and reflect changes that occurred by time such as The Machine Age and technology that started to develop in the 19th century, also the time of mass production and commerce. Steampunk is more post-apocalyptic style  and technology. Although the Victorian era lasted for 64 years through out Queen Victoria reign I am going to focus on the late Victorian style since steampunk is more inspired from the late years of the century. Regarding film The Hunger Games is a post-apocalyptic film and the eccentric character of Effie Trinket brought me some ideas especially her edgy costumes and head-pieces.

Victorian Headpieces Style 

Spoon Bonnet c.1860 Henry Ford Historic Costume Collection.

A hat / headpiece  from the beginning was considered as a necessity to complete and outfit also an accessory.In the middle ages the church ordered that hair must be covered. Milliners of  that time were more of stylist until it became a profession and created many beautiful headpieces to complete an outfit. In the beginning of the century were in vogue the bonnets some of them big,puffy and fully decorated. By the 1860 the bonnets became smaller and shallow shapes and a peaked crown that was decorated with flowers which was called the 'Spoon Bonnet' as seen above. 

Later in 1865 the 'Fanchon' was popular, this was smaller, triangular shaped piece of straw or silk material with wide ribbons. In the 1860's were hats re-introduced again such as Glengarry highland caps, pork pie hats, Tyrolean peaked crown hats and little doll hat styles. The later were decorated with feathers and cockades. As time went by in the 1870's-1880's bonnets were associated with a matronly image and '3 story/ flowerpots' tall hats were introduced which was a revival to women's riding in the late 18th century and copied from men's style covering the same period. Men's fashion inspired women's fashion due to women's  participation in sport and outdoor activities such as the 'Trilby's' and 'Boaters' were appropriate with formal clothing. The hats decreased in size but increased in width along time. 

Canadian Fanchon Bonnet ( right side) c1866 

             

Flower Pot Hat c.1885

                                                  

Vintage Fashion Guild,2013. The History of Women's Hats. [online] Available at: < http://vintagefashionguild.org/fashion-history/the-history-of-womens-hats/ >
[Accessed 6 January 2014]

The Henry Ford,2005. The Henry Ford Costume Collection. [image online] Available at : < http://dlxs.lib.wayne.edu/cgi/i/image/image-idx?med=1;rgn1=hfhcc_su;q1=Clothing%20and%20Dress;sort=hfhcc_su;c=hfhcc;back=back1370377118;quality=0;view=entry;resnum=14;chaperone=S-HFHCC-X-28.706.2%20EM02A28_706_2D.JP2;entryid=x-28.706.2;viewid=EM02A28_706_2D.JP2;cc=hfhcc;np=next;evl=full-image >
[Accessed 9 January 2014]

Vintage Fashion Guild, 2013.  The History of Women's Hats. [image online ] Available at : < http://vintagefashionguild.org/fashion-history/the-history-of-womens-hats/ > 
[Accessed 9 January 2014] 

The Hunger Games-Effie Trinket Inspiration

Film Inspiration: The Hunger Games

My concept for the visual product is of a headpiece that is inspired from the Victorian era and Steampunk. When I saw the first film from the trilogy of The Hunger Games I fell in love with the edgy and eccentric costumes especially of Effie Trinket's character who she wear outrageous outfits at all times. I chose these to two styles of Victorian and Steampunk because steampunk is inspired from Victorian and the film portrays steampunk a lot especially when it comes to fashion and technology.

Victorian Era Fashion 

Crinoline skirt flatted
from front. Winterhalter
painting, 1865

When Queen Victoria reigned in England she was still  very young just 18 years old so she was adventurous,creative, innovative and fearless to try out new things. During the period she reigned, fashion was launched that would be an inspiration and phenomenon till present. Basically the Victorian era was split up into two periods early period ( 1837-1860 ) and the mid-to-late period ( 1860-1901 ).

  Before the Victorian era dresses were much elaborate and huge, in fact they used to wear a crinolines under the skirt to make it look fuller, these were like cages . The sleeves were puffed and created broad shoulders. When the Victorian era developed, dresses by time started to become much more practical and narrower sleeves, tight-fitting boned bodice, narrower skirts with ruffles and frills. In the mid-Victorian era (1860-1880) the sewing machine was invented, fashion became more couture design, synthetic dyes were available for intense colours and the crinoline skirt was flattened in the front but showed the garment from the back. 

Soft polonaise bustle.

In 1875, they were in vogue the soft polonaise bustle this was a draped and frilled train at the back of a dress.With the invention of the sewing machine it made easier to add frills, pleats, ruffles braids and fringing and made it heavily ornamented until later were replaced by the Princess sheath garment. By 1880 the silhouette was getting longer ans slimmer even more by the train. These lasted for three years only though. Followed by in 1883 the hard bustle which made the women's silhouette look like the hind legs of a horse. 

Tailored made suits
of the 1890's 

Tailored made garments were introduced in 1874 that led to fashionable tailor made suits in the 1890's . Fashion now became more plain, simpler and tailored yet still elegant and neat.Sharp tailored jackets were popular and embraced by the late Victorian women, it made more confident and a different posture. Women were showing their strength as a gender in their workplace with Power Dressing, which was similar in 1985, through women wearing masculine tailored and shoulder padded jackets.

The gowns of the 1880's were made from two colours and one material, colours usually were vivid such purple, royal blue, deep red, peacock blue, bright green and many more sometimes the combinations were rather strange. In contrary to day dresses the night gowns were made in softer hues and contrasting fabrics.

Modern Fashion Inspired from Victorian Era

Although its been over a 100 years since Victorian era fashion was developed, it remained a phenomenon and an influence with modern fashion designers and society. Famously worldwide fashion designer used Victorian styles in their haute couture collection,ready-to-wear collections,editorials even for wedding gowns. Making a good observation one can notice the influence of Victorian fashion in fairy tale themed shoots, Gothic editorials and in movies such as The Hunger Games, Marie Antoinette, Alice in Wonderland, Sweeney Todd amongst many others. Detailed pieces such as lace, ruffles, frills, tulle and many more add that beautiful and elegant touch to modern collection. 

Atelier Versace Spring 2011,

Bridal Collection, Yolan Cris Spring 2013

The incorporation of details such lace, tulle, corsets, slim-fitted gowns and extravagant headpieces will attract the youth generation.  Its a way of keeping  the historical  Victorian era fashion alive by combining the traditional of the nineteenth century with modern fashion. 

Effie Trinket- The Hunger Games

As I mentioned in the beginning my main inspirations for the visual concept the headpiece is Effie Trinket, one of the main character in the Th Hunger Games trilogy who she has the role of an escort in district 12. I fell in love with the costumes that Trish Summerville created for the cast especially for Trinket. Trish Summerville is the costume designer for this trilogy, she confessed that her main inspiration for Effie Trinket's outfits were Marie Antoinette and Italian fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli.Summerville wanted to create something silly and fun for Effie.  Trinket's was considered as a style icon in the Capitol city, she is an eccentric with a unique and flamboyant outfits and always changing stylized wigs and make-up.Her character is one of a perfectionist and always prim and proper and hate bad manners, this qualities reflect in her outrageous outfits that are always matching, sophisticated, and neat. The Victorian influence can be seen in her outfits very clearly such as the tailored suit with puffed sleeves, ruffles, extravagant headpieces, tulle, wide skirts or dresses, vivid or pastel colours, flower patterns, collars and even permed  coloured hair. 

The poster for Catching Fire 

Effie Trinket 

Wearing a tailored made suit. 

Thomas.,P, 2001-2013. Early Victorian Costume and Fashion History 1837-1860. [online] Available at: <http://www.fashion-era.com/early_victorian_fashion.htm > 

[Accessed 18 December 2013]  

Thomas.,P, 2001-2013. Mid-late Victorian Fashion and Costume History 1860-1901. [online] Available at: < http://www.fashion-era.com/mid-late_victorian_fashion.htm > 

[Accessed 18 December 2013]

Trend Hunter Inc,n.d. 100 Victorian Inspired Styles.[online] Available at: < http://www.trendhunter.com/slideshow/victorianinspired-styles >
[Accessed 19 December 2013] 

Art in Vctorian Age-Inspiration

Victorian Age Inspiration

The Victorian Age was a period were changes occurred due to inventions of technology started to take place followed by a change in society too. Queen Victoria reigned for 64 years in the nineteenth century and Britain went to an  expansion in art, fashion and high prosperity which led to the use of bright and vivid colours in paintings representing all this. In art they returned to classic realism which was popular with Roman and Greek societies. Due to the changes, the public, artists and scientist portrayed art and aesthetics in a different manner due to the technological advance which were made during that era. 

An example of Victorian paintings
portraying the countryside: 'On the Avon near Bath"

 Queen Victoria reigned from 1837 till 1901 and Britain was one of the most powerful. The Victorian art saw different movements and these were all produced during the Victorian era, they consist of  Classicism, Neo-Classicism,  Realism, Impressionism followed by Post-Impressionism, Symbolism and Victorian. Classicism was influenced by many movements along the time and from realistic it changed to vivid colours and emotional strokes and replaced the realistic form and shadow.Post-Impressionism ended the era of Queen Victoria's reign. 

The growth and prosperity during the era in Britain, inspired many artists to focus  on high fashion and modern elegance. The Victorian artwork which was produced was very elegant and popular and made Britain popular for their finery, modernity and elegant etiquette in the world and as a result Victorian art portrayed high-class events in bold colours showing how wealthy and happy people were.They also depicted scenes from the English countryside, this was a point of view for many people

High-class society

During the 64 years Queen Victoria reigned,many advances in photographic and architectural technology affected changes in art styles  that occurred in Victorian art. Changes happened in form and decorum due to technologies that were getting invented.

High-class events

Contemporary Art Inspired from Victorian Era

As time went by, Victorian art always remained popular and inspiring to design or art. Many art movements got inspired and developed from it such Impressionism and Post-Impressionism. The Arts and Crafts movement (1860-1910)  which was set-up by William Morris was inspired from the Victorian era and created many patterns and designs. Contemporary artists such as photographers, fashion designers, graphic designers as well as product designers produced collections with  Victorian art but with a contemporary twist.

Victorian art made a boom in history since the changes took place and people woke up on their feet to work and produce art and coming up with new, innovative concepts. Along the time  photographers did reapplications of paintings in their photography, fashion designers produced haute couture collections inspired from Victorian clothing or paintings.As seen in many of the paintings, women wore bright or pastel colours combined with flowers on their head or the painting scene set in the English countryside. Later in the twentieth century  modern Victorian was invented and this was the Steampunk. Although steampunk is much more based in design we can find some contemporary paintings with this new theme. 

Helen Warner, 2012, inspired from Millais. 

An example of reapplication of a photo. 

'Opehlia', John Everett Millais, 1851-1852

Victorian Art Inspiration 
in my Visual Product

My idea for the visual product is a headpiece that is inspired from steampunk and victorian art. These two movements although they a different from each other still there is a link between them because both of them are a revolution in art and design. Headpieces were very popular with the high society class in Victorian era, they used to be adorned with flowers, lace and comes in different shapes and sizes. They used to wear hats and headpieces for particular occasions yet some used to always wear. 

Lady in a Rose Hat by Sue Halstenberg (n.d )

This painting above is a modern painting although no date was given. What I liked in this painting is the lace on the decolte up till her neck, it inspired me to add lace in the design of the headpiece and have a combination of an edgy and fashionable headpiece combined with classical and soft look that make it very femminine. Lace is one of my favourite materials because it's very classic and makes any clothing looks timless, on the other hand steampunk is very edgy and modern. 

avictorian.com,2009.The Victorian Artists.[online] Available at : < http://www.avictorian.com/victorianart.html > 

[Accessed 17 December 2013]