Visual Product

Head-Piece Style and Design Inspiration



My final concept idea of the visual product is that of headpiece inspired from the Victorian era, Steampunk and the character of Effie Trinket from the The Hunger Games film. What made me to design this concept its  because I am big fan of headpieces and hats and wanted to so something related with fashion but different. I wanted to relate the theme of time with the concept and I think they are going to fit perfectly. As I mentioned in previous blog posts about the product,is that both era's ( Victorian and Steampunk) are linked with each other and reflect changes that occurred by time such as The Machine Age and technology that started to develop in the 19th century, also the time of mass production and commerce. Steampunk is more post-apocalyptic style  and technology. Although the Victorian era lasted for 64 years through out Queen Victoria reign I am going to focus on the late Victorian style since steampunk is more inspired from the late years of the century. Regarding film The Hunger Games is a post-apocalyptic film and the eccentric character of Effie Trinket brought me some ideas especially her edgy costumes and head-pieces.


Victorian Headpieces Style 
Spoon Bonnet, about 1860, via The Henry Ford Historic Costume Collection.
Spoon Bonnet c.1860 Henry Ford Historic Costume Collection.

A hat / headpiece  from the beginning was considered as a necessity to complete and outfit also an accessory.In the middle ages the church ordered that hair must be covered. Milliners of  that time were more of stylist until it became a profession and created many beautiful headpieces to complete an outfit. In the beginning of the century were in vogue the bonnets some of them big,puffy and fully decorated. By the 1860 the bonnets became smaller and shallow shapes and a peaked crown that was decorated with flowers which was called the 'Spoon Bonnet' as seen above. 


Later in 1865 the 'Fanchon' was popular, this was smaller, triangular shaped piece of straw or silk material with wide ribbons. In the 1860's were hats re-introduced again such as Glengarry highland caps, pork pie hats, Tyrolean peaked crown hats and little doll hat styles. The later were decorated with feathers and cockades. As time went by in the 1870's-1880's bonnets were associated with a matronly image and '3 story/ flowerpots' tall hats were introduced which was a revival to women's riding in the late 18th century and copied from men's style covering the same period. Men's fashion inspired women's fashion due to women's  participation in sport and outdoor activities such as the 'Trilby's' and 'Boaters' were appropriate with formal clothing. The hats decreased in size but increased in width along time. 


American Spoon bonnet, c. 1862 - Canadian Fanchon bonnet, c. 1866
Canadian Fanchon Bonnet ( right side) c1866 
             
Flower Pot Hat c.1885
                                                  



Vintage Fashion Guild,2013. The History of Women's Hats. [online] Available at: < http://vintagefashionguild.org/fashion-history/the-history-of-womens-hats/ >
[Accessed 6 January 2014]

The Henry Ford,2005. The Henry Ford Costume Collection. [image online] Available at : < http://dlxs.lib.wayne.edu/cgi/i/image/image-idx?med=1;rgn1=hfhcc_su;q1=Clothing%20and%20Dress;sort=hfhcc_su;c=hfhcc;back=back1370377118;quality=0;view=entry;resnum=14;chaperone=S-HFHCC-X-28.706.2%20EM02A28_706_2D.JP2;entryid=x-28.706.2;viewid=EM02A28_706_2D.JP2;cc=hfhcc;np=next;evl=full-image >
[Accessed 9 January 2014]

Vintage Fashion Guild, 2013.  The History of Women's Hats. [image online ] Available at : < http://vintagefashionguild.org/fashion-history/the-history-of-womens-hats/ > 
[Accessed 9 January 2014] 





Steampunk Garments and Accessories

When we hear the word steampunk  immediately come to our minds technology and mechanical engines  based in the Victorian Era. Some people think of something as post-apocalyptic, Sc-Fi or vintage. Basically it revolves around the Industrial Revolution of the machine age. It is a society of "What If?" with a futuristic aspect combined with the steam period.  We recognise steampunk from the symbols and the particular styles used in clothes and accessories that are quite original and eccentric. 


                             

Some popular examples of steampunk clothing and accessories are the corset, military jackets, frilled and puffed skirts, ruffled shirts, lace-up boots jackets with tails and waistcoats. Regarding accessories the top hat and the goggles are a must amongst others such as  large buckled belts, gloves, pouches and more. Most colours used for this particular style are browns, grey, black, khaki, maroon and navy blue although one can wear any colour to achieve a steampunk look.Fabrics like lace, velvet, leather and suede are commonly used too. 
Steampunk top hat with gears

Men's look



Steampunk goggles



Steampunk requires materials such as metal and wood that make the objects look permanently rather than technology made from plastic. Common materials used in steampunk designs are brass, copper, steel,iron together with wood,antique glassbulbs, leather and glass. Antiquities inspired from the Victorian era such eye glasses and pocket watches are very popular, they also give an indication of which social class a person belongs too. Sometimes in a Sci-fi film  we see body parts such as skin, arms, bones etc  made from mechanical components. Clocks are a necessity in steampunk as they are much older than steam technology along with clocks we find gears that are important too. Without the gears the steam and clock machine can't work. Another popular symbol in steampunk is the key which is  associated with automaton robots to function. The list of materials and symbols of steampunk goes on and on. The three that I mentioned here are the most commonly used in garments and accessories. 


The clock symbol represent time and the developments time brought by throughout the years that started in the Victorian era. Gears are linked with steam and clocks since they won't function without a gear. In fashion, the gear  is the most used symbol in steampunk .Last but not least the key without it an automaton would't work. In my opinion the key represents the opening lock of a new world, a new society and new inventions that came along with time. An example is the automaton which would only function with a key certain them, these can sing, write with a functional  language and voice they represent also "Fantasy vs Realism". 

Steampunk gears
Steampunk keys 
               
                 Steampunk clock with gears and Roman numbers



These three components are used mostly in every steampunk accessory from top hats, brooches, jewellery, shoes, glasses and many more. Steampunk goggles and hats are also commonly used in an outfit. In my visual product I will be using them for the hat, maybe I won't add them all, but set them  next to each other to create like a brooch on the hat. Regarding the shape of the hat I will be doing one inspired from the late Victorian a top hat or flower pot hat styles.




Leata Nelsonl ,2012. What is Steampunk? Here Are Some General Characteristics. [online] Available at :< http://www.streetarticles.com/fashion-style/what-is-steampunk-here-are-some-general-characteristics >
[Accessed 17 January 2014]

Jonathan Strickland,n.d. How Steampunk Works.[online] Available at :< http://people.howstuffworks.com/steampunk1.htm >
[Accessed 17 January 2014]




Gina Scarnati 


Gina Scarnati 


Gina Scarnati  originally is a professional costume designer but worked as a milliner in The Hunger Games film. Scarnati produced all the hats and headpieces shown in the film a total of 192 headpieces done in under six weeks, 20 days in  a row and 16 hours non-stop. The aim was the hats to evoke each district in the film. Obviously she created all of the headpieces Effie Trinket worn in the film, including the iconic magenta flower headpiece seen in the first part of the film. 
Effie Trinket in Entertainment's Weekly 
The opening scene wearing the magenta flower 

The training and education Scarnati in making hats was given by Andrea Barrier but also she attended Dean's University and created her own major theatre production and costume designs. While still an undergraduate she followed courses from the Professional Theatre Training Program as theatre is one of her passions that she truly loves. Gina Scarnati worked in many productions such as "Snow White and the Huntsman", True Blood also with professional theatre companies in Delaware. 


Although Gina Scarnati focused on flower headpieces rather than hats, in Effie Trinket attire we still see that Victorian element in them.Flowers were very much used in Victorian hats and headpieces.The colours worn on Trinket bright and vivid are the same colours they wore back in the Victorian era. Apart from the colours, Effie Trinket style is very much inspired from the Victorian, the puffed sleeves on a tailored jacket, the pencil skirt with frills that make up a suit complementing a prim and proper look just like Victorian women.Scarnati and Trish Summerville wanted to create uncomfortable outfits and shoes, to adapt with Trinket's discomfort in living the Capitol's lifestyle in which by time she realise that it was damaging for the habitants. Victorian outfits were uncomfortable due to puffed, big skirts,tight corsets,heavy hats sometimes and more. Victorian Women sometimes couldn't walk or sit properly. Accessories like long gloves, brooches, chunky flower collars even the big curly hair all of them originated in the nineteenth century. 


Artika Rangan Casini ,2013. Hunger Games Hats. [online] Available at:< http://www.udel.edu/udaily/2012/mar/scarnati-hunger-games-032912.html > 
[Accessed 17 January 2014]





Sketches and Developments for Final Product

So finally after doing my research on Victorian hats, steampunk design and Effie Trinket's style in Hunger Games film I concluded to a style and design for my product which is the top hat. Part of the research that I did about Victorian fashion along times and characteristics, but focused more on hats and headpieces worn. Since steampunk is very inspired from Victorian especially the last two decades I made sure to design a hat which was invented and worn at that time. 


Amongst from  'flower pot', tyrolean and  bonnets top hats were very popular especially  for men but women who participated in outdoor activities opted for a smiler style like the men. Top hats are very associated with steampunk so I opted for a top hat style. Found some images regarding this style and sketched a few in colour. 


Sketch of two Top Hat slightly different
Sketches of Tyrolean and Top Hat style





Apart choosing the style of the hat, the decorating of the hat is based on steampunk characteristics, Effie Trinket's flower headpiece and a piece of lace and the idea of side flowers on hats too from the Victorian lady painting. I sketched some of these although they are not well done and clear.

Sketches of gears, clock hands and lace

I was still not sure what colour to use for the base though  wanted it to be fun and use bright colours, keeping in mind the magenta flower from Trinket's inspiration to match with colour chosen. Then decided to keep on cold colours for two reasons; my favourite colours and seen a lot in Effie Trinket's outfits also Victorians loved bright hues for there outfits and hats. A deep purple colour I chose together with a magenta flower.

Drew the top hat and tried out what purple hues use by using acqaurelles and smudge all over. Also placed the flower and steampunk clock hands on the side of the hat together with a real piece of lace.

Top Hat with flower and clock hands placed and lace attached

Now I will finalize and adapt accordingly to a finished product.




Final Development of the Visual Product 

So finally the final product is ready, a women's top-hat inspired from steampunk and Victorian art era. My aim for this concept was to have an eccentric and fun hat.This is ideal to wear it  with a costume/clothes related with Victorian and steampunk, themed parties, fashion events or if you want to stand-out from the crowd. 


M

Final Product Drawing


So I chose to do a top-hat style and not any other hat because this style is worn with Victorian and steampunk outfits. Before in the Victorian era men used to wear top-hats for everyday, but women opted for similar styles too. Meanwhile in steampunk  fashion its a must and can be worn by anybody, they also add goggles on top. 

This type of  hat was created during the time of change and revolution in fashion, art, architecture,design, technology, commerce and  mass production.


The reason I did it purple to complement the magenta flower and also a rich colour too. Effie Trinket wore clothing made from rich quality materials. Purple colour  represent royalty, magic and mystery. The flower changed it a bit and didn't do it exactly like hers, instead I added a steampunk clock with frame in a form of a gear. The minute and hour clock hands which have a typical design for steampunk only and placed them coming out from behind the flower.To add a bit a typical Victorian element added the lace fabric as a strip around the hat. The material of the hat would be made out from velvet or felt.



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